天才院校、鬼才设计师——2017中央圣马丁设计作品：Central Saint Martins

天才院校、鬼才设计师——2017中央圣马丁设计作品：Central Saint Martins 水利工作服The scene outside the Central Saint Martins MA show felt reassuringly like old times: €€ a roiling hysteria of students and club kids, dressed to the teeth, college officials manning the barriers, pulling VIPs and any press they recognised through the crowd. How rarely in these oh-so-clinically

The scene outside the Central Saint Martins MA show felt reassuringly like old times: €€ a roiling hysteria of students and club kids, dressed to the teeth, college 工作服套装男款
officials manning the barriers, pulling VIPs and any press they recognised through the crowd. How rarely in these oh-so-clinically ordered days are people actually desperate to gate-crash a fashion show? Brexit may be happening€€Theresa May has said she will trigger Article 50 to leave Europe at the end of next month€€but none of the general dread of what’s to come is apparently holding back the enthusiasm of London’s young for fashion. Or that of the headhunters and industry professionals who gather here annually to cherry-pick the talent from this elite class, the alma mater of most of the independent designers in London Fashion Week, and countless more who populate the studios of the luxury groups of the world.

That atmosphere made things cheerily encouraging from the get-go. If anything, the push-and-shove felt more like a throwback to the energy of the early ’80s or ’90s€€, also times of economic malaise in which London’s fashion-obsessed style tribes rose up and got creative. With Charles Jeffrey (an alum, class of 2015) and his crew of multicolored, gender-nonspecific Loverboy club-night friends leading the charge from the front rows, the urgent enjoyment of being on the scene€€€€as opposed to lying around, checking Internet pictures, not bothering to go out€€is back in this city with a bang.

Sixteen students made this year’s cut. Fabio Piras, the course leader who has taken up the baton from the late Professor Louise Wilson OBE, runs this course with his precedessor’s stickler demands for excellence and individuality. Set on a mission to research and produce exactly what they like€€as long as it’s not derivative€€the class of 2017 seemed blessedly liberated from the attendant fears of the outside world. Joshua Beatty’s surreal girlywear involved accessories and protruberances grossly suggesting intestinal tubes and orifices fashioned from duchess satin and knitwear€€exa模拟人生3+更改工作服
ctly the kind of thing for a Loverboy night out. Gabriella Sardena sent out raffia, tinsel, and traily film-tape chubbies and skimpy chiffon dresses on a bunch of glam girls in stripey stockings and bodysuits who looked like they were headed for a good time backstage or onstage €€at 奥黛工作服
a rock concert. Tom Guy poufed pastel tulle bubbles on tailored moiré silk strapless jumpsuits. Peter Movrin, with his exuberantly voluminous bright pink and orange flounces, backed with rustling silver foil and ruched up with rope, rounded off the party tendency.

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